In 1994, CK One – the first unisex fragrance launched the world and created a storm discussing sex in perfume. But before CK One, the concept of gender was blurred by the niche brand.
Unisex or Gender Free is the way people use to talk about scents that do not care about sex. This concept is not new in fashion, not new in music and not new in the field of perfume. Since before the niche brand launched its first unisex scent, it was not uncommon for women and men to use each other’s perfumes.
We all know in the past, there are notes that are the default for women (white and sweet), and there are notes for men (leather, tobacco, wood, alcohol). In 2007, perfumer Kilian Hennessy created the Straight to Heaven perfume with the idea of a fragrance for men. “It’s a very masculine scent of my own, it has wood and amber, no citrus, no fruit and flowers.” But in the end Straight to Heaven developed into a unique fragrance that young women love. Quickly recognized the change in the sex of perfume, since 2007, Kilian Hennessy almost unveiled the unisex line. He says that it is always curious to see a new perfume bottle because it does not understand which ingredients are more attractive: men or women?
Hennessy was not the first perfumer to realize this. About 40% of the buyers of Tom Ford’s Black Orchid are men, while the perfume was originally introduced only for women. From 2007 onwards, Tom Ford launched a unisex perfume system for both sexes, the Private Blend line. And at Annick Goutal, salespeople have quickly recognized the love of both sexes for the special smells like Mandragore (which is only for women) and Eau d’Hadrien (which is only for men). No wonder, Annick Goutal quickly put both bottles into the unisex list.
Non-gender trends were very early in niche brands such as By Kilian, Tom Ford, Frédéric Malle, Jo Malone, L’Artisan Parfumeur, Serge Lutens and Bond no 9. So far, Hermès has three perfume lines Unisex is Hermessence (from 2004 to present), Jardin (from 2003 to present), Voyage d’Hermes (from 2010 to present). Armani – a brand that has explicitly discriminated against sex, has also reserved a separate area for the unisex in the Armani Prive (2004) or Armani Prive The Thousand and One Nights (from 2010). And Chanel, the special “conservative” brand with the sex division of scent, finally launched their first unisex perfume: Boy Chanel – to be available in the mid-summer market. This year (with lavender, rose, geranium, lemon, grapefruit, rose, orange blossom, sandalwood, heliotropin, vanilla and musk).
“We are not trying to create a unisex perfume bottle, we want to create a masculine scent that is attractive to women,” says Olivier Polge.
Even so, Chanel is pretty conservative about the gender of the perfume. Perfume Olivier Polge’s point of view is: “We are not trying to create a unisex perfume bottle, we want to create a masculine fragrance that is attractive to women.” This makes us question whether Chanel really wants to create a unisex fragrance for both sexes, or just want to target a woman who has a simple, sharp personality. he? The name Boy Chanel is enough to remind us of the bag that made the wind over the years of Chanel: the square style pockets with sharp edge design is very manly.
Unisex – Where to start?
A classic example of when talking about unisex perfumes is Guerlain’s Jicky. This perfume was launched in 1889 which was intended for women. But the vanilla smell of it was too bold with the ladies of the time – who were using floral fragrances. Instead, men were more interested in Jicky, and until the mid-twentieth century, almost all men bought the perfume. In the 1960s, 70s, Jicky was shared by both sexes: celebrities such as Brigitte Bardot, Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis or Sean Connery and Roger Moore.
The 1960s also saw the popularity of the patchouli in the hippy fragrances for both men and women. A quarter of a century later, CK One surfs on the grunge wave and arouses non-sexist trends with fresh, citrus-scented scents that blend in on any skin. “We live in a democracy of perfume,” said Tom Ford. “Finally, choosing a scent is purely personal and instinctive. It is not decided by sex but by inhaling and wondering: is this fragrance okay with me, so I like this fragrance? ”
Many modern women cannot stand the traditional feminine scent: they have too many flowers, too much vanilla, too sweet. Thus, they find neutral but unique scents, with notes of fresh, refreshing green, herbs or citrus, to feel more comfortable and breathable. And a very important object contributing to the sexual cleansing of men is the sex of the third. These gay guys are the pioneers of perfume testing, they have a good taste and not bad taste. They are not afraid to deviate from traditional men’s fragrances with fresh, clean or bitter, black and warm scents. They are ready to try the powerful blend of roses with incense or tobacco with vanilla: the fragrance blends delicately and balances the characteristics of the two sexes. This pioneering influence on the straight (man is not gay) and lead to many similar changes.
In Tom Ford’s view, unisex perfumes are as common as pants – women take a long time to get their feet on the first pair of pants, and now it’s worn by everyone. Fabrice Penot, co-owner of Le Labo fragrances, agrees: “Men’s and feminine issues of perfume are completely marketing concepts.” Le Labo Rose 31, named after the most feminine flower but sold for both sexes, and both sexes did not find any problem (as evidenced by Rose 31 – selling well for all).